Warsaw – a metropolis with one metro line – is lacking something… and I do not mean a second line… I mean a sub-culture in the subway!
By Magdalena Jensen
One would think that taking a seat in an underground train about to jet one off to work would be a pleasurable experience – the single moment in one’s day when there is no possibility to get a telephone call, check email, hear the nagging spouse go on about the garbage. There is even the possibility of having a friendly chat with one’s seat neighbour over the latest news headline flashing over the television screens. Maybe you will make eye contact with the love of your life… a little smile and a nod… well, sadly to say, not in Warsaw.
Warsaw’s subway – here-to-fore referred to as ‘metro’ – is a curious phenomenon for several reasons: one being that there is no concept of ‘metro culture’ and two, that there is only one metro line… though perhaps that directly contributes to curiosity number one. Allow me to elaborate.
Let me start with a little bit of trivia on the history of Warsaw’s metro. First off – there is only one single metro line in the capital city of Poland running north-south for 23 kilometres and stopping at twenty-one stations. Plans to build a metro line in Warsaw date back to 1918, though they actually materialized in 1995 – that means that it took seventy-seven years to actually build the thing. And it is still only one line! But, no matter. It is clean, runs relatively frequently, and without much mishap. Not only that, but the Plac Wilsona station, located in Warsaw’s Zoliborz borough, won an award in April 2008 for the best recently constructed metro – and if you’re ever in the city and obsessed with train stations, I highly recommend checking it out as it is rather lovely.
There are plans to build a second metro line – in fact, all of the papers are raging over the latest news that the project will cost 4 billion zloty – some one billion euro. It is considered by many to be too expensive, especially in a time of crisis – but I say, can you really put a price on a transportation innovation that will rocket Warsaw into the caliber of a modern day metropolis? I do not think so – especially because just as many passengers need to travel east-west as need to travel north-south. In fact, one could consider the current lack of an east-west metro to be discrimination against those living in the particular boroughs missing rapid transport… but that is a topic for another time. As such, I look forward to the opening of a second metro line in Warsaw – and hopefully sooner than in 77 years.
On to metro culture – there is none. Period. It might have something to do with the fact that the metro is very limited and new… but you’re probably scratching your heads over exactly what I mean about the term metro culture. By ‘metro culture,’ I mean several things including the typical ideas of culture – like music or art or performance – but I also mean something like common courtesy or norms surrounding how to use the metro.
So, as far as entertainment culture is concerned – Warsaw’s metro has nothing. And the very occasional wayward homeless backpacker trying to make a zloty or two by plucking at a guitar or pounding on a trash can does not count folks. It is rather sad actually. Some of my favorite memories of New York City are when you go underground and what is usually a zoo of rushing people suddenly stops for a moment of joy because a troupe of boys are break dancing or a threadbare musician is playing a melancholy melody on his violin – and actually, many of the subway performers in New York are so good that the city now actually sponsors cultural performances underground. It is simply sad that Varsovians do not have the opportunity to take a two-minute break from their rat race and listen to a song or catch some slam poetry.
Additionally, Varsovians lack a proper way to act on the metro… in my opinion there are certain behavioral norms surrounding mass transit. One waits to enter the train until everyone has disembarked. One smiles at fellow passengers. One enjoys the off-hand comment on the weather forecast being broadcast on the televisions. But, overall, one interacts with the other people crammed into a tiny tube hurtling way too fast down a long, dark tunnel. I mean, one ride on Warsaw’s metro will make you really pray to whatever higher power you prefer that the train does not stall somewhere in the dark and you are stuck with the surly looking people all around you.
Now, I really believe that this does not say anything negative about Varsovians’ characters… rather it has to do with the fact that the metro is such a new phenomenon in this city. But, it is also an as-yet undiscovered gem of opportunity. Not only do Warsaw’s struggling musicians have the potential opportunity to make a zloty or five just awaiting them, but the every-day rider has a wealth of opportunity to make a new friend. So, go ahead Varsovians, smile at your fellow passenger – you could be smiling at your future husband!